A great steak is a vice. Its juiciness is hidden beneath a nice char, and when you bite into it, the meat just melts in your mouth. You heartily devour the entire plate-sized slab, the tannins of a good cabernet equal to the challenge. You don’t forget about the creamy potatoes and crisp vegetable sides, but that’s not why you’re at a Back Bay steak house. You’re there for impossibly savvy service, for the hum of a room, a stolen glance at other tables for friends, future friends, even a celebrity. Back Bay is great steakhouse central in New England, bar none. For a table of four on a weekend at one of the neighborhood’s top shelf steak houses, it’s hard to get out the door without paying $500, with tip. But you’re paying $30-$40 for the finest plate-sized USDA Prime. You want to hear a story about your cow’s sacrifice, and listen attentively to your waiter describe whether it’s dry or wet aged, and for how long, and whether the cow ate corn or grass. “People will get a ‘wow’ experience,” promises Morton’s manager Nicki Kern, who says there’s a reason Morton’s doesn’t have to advertise beyond word of mouth. “Our hospitality is over the top. It’s what they expected, and more. People like coming here.” The Restaurant Industry Performance index says sales remain soft, according to the National Restaurant Association. Operators across the nation report lower sales and traffic levels. But in this economy, in these times where the word “recession” is being debated, these major league Back Bay steakhouses are still pulling them in from all over town, as well as from the ‘burbs and from around the world. “When times get tough, people want to have fun,” says Oak Room Chef Laurent Poulain, who says they are fully booked every weekend. “They want to forget about the tough times and have a glass of wine or a martini. We have a restaurant that makes people happy.” When the weather cools, people like settling into the joy of a great steak, huge portions of creamy sides and sinful desserts. Customers want to spend their hard-earned money not on two or three forgettable meals, but a single memorable one. They wish to be entertained with the inventive menu and fabulous service, along with the uncorking of a good red, shimmying to the shakers of a fun cocktail. “You come here for birthdays, anniversaries, when you have something to celebrate,” says Flemings’ General Manager Michael Dearing. “It’s nice to splurge. You come for the experience. It’s one of the best ways to spend a Friday or Saturday night.” And you want someone else to do the dishes. Or maybe you don’t mind. Could you duplicate the experience at home? It’s pretty hard to buy a prime cut. Those ranks of the good stuff are saved for the restaurants, since they only comprise about 3 percent of all beef sold. It’s also not easy to cook a nice steak on a home grill or broiler. “When you’re cooking at home, the pan might cool off, the grill might cool off,” says McCormick & Schmick’s executive chef, Tony Hernandez. A restaurant’s professional oven offers consistent heat, as does the repetition of their chefs cooking the steak every day, he says. In other words: Kids, don’t try this at home. Steak lovers really can’t go wrong at any of the following steakhouses. All of these steakhouses have won some “best of” award; if a steakhouse has survived the competition for this long, you know they must be doing something right. Instead, you may be searching for a certain scene, or a style of preparation. The following is a guide of what’s at steak:
Bonfire, A Todd English Steakhouse Boston Park Plaza Hotel Boston, MA 02116 617-262-3473 www.bonfiresteakhouse.com
Summary: Local celebrity Todd English adds a touch of Latin to the steakhouse. Interior is filled with reds, polished woods, iron-accented furniture. Theater and younger trendy crowds. It’s singles night among the younger set on the weekends.
Chef: Bobby Bean, moved here 4 months ago from English’s Kingfish.
The Steak: Dry-aged 90-120 days, the longer th e better, and cooked on an open, wood-fired kitchen; also spit fired Prime Rib of Western Beef. The chef is bringing in more organic and local beef, including tenderloins from Lilbrock Farms in New York. The current cows come from fine farms, Bean says, but Bean wants to work with the farms whose methods he’s familiar with. “Happy cows make better beef,” he says.
Chef’s recommended dish: 10-oz skirt steak from Brandt Farms in California. It’s so moist and tender, without any marinade or any seasoning aside from salt and pepper. “The flavor is so much better than a tenderloin,” says Bean. “When you bite into it, it’s almost the same as a nice Wagyu or Kobe. The explosion of fat and flavor just coats your mouth. The texture is not overly chewy, it’s a well-made steak.” The cows are cornfed. What Bean likes about the farm is that they are able to raise cows on corn diets without having to resort to antibiotics to help them digest it, by, um, letting them keep their manhood for their first six months. “It lets the natural testosterone build muscles and a digestive system,” says Bean. “Life on corn feed gives it a fine flavor,” he says. Sides: Tapas; spinach sautéed in garlic What makes them special: Latin menu; Menu’s steaks will list cow’s origins, whether grass or corn fed, if it’s organic, and other details.
The Capital Grille 359 Newbury St. 617-262-8900 www.thecapitalgrille.com They didn’t want to be in our roundup. You know who they are and what makes them special.
Davio’s Italian Steakhouse 75 Arlington St. Co-Executive Chefs: Stephen W. Brown and Eric Swartz Summary: This spot doesn’t normally come to mind when you think of steakhouses, but when it moved from Newbury Street to Park Square, it added quality steak to its lineup of tagliatelle Bolognese, Penne Applewood Smoked Chicken and homemade sausages. Inside features attentive friendly service, a large display kitchen with in-house bakery, an award-winning wine list, and a to-go area. Large windows, comfy chairs, muted taupes and chocolate brown decor. Busy and noisy, with a bar crowd ranging from suits to the theater crowd. Steak: All-natural dry-aged Brandt beef, from the grilled skirt steak at $28 to the Grilled Snake River Farms Kobe Coulotte at $51, and Prime Natural Aged 30oz Long-Bone Rib Eye at $52 Wine: rare and expensive Italian vintages, along with an international selection of other wines. Special: bakery makes fresh doughnuts and ice cream.
Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar 217 Stuart St. Boston, MA 02116 617-292-0808 www.flemingssteakhouse.com Since: eight years
Summary/atmosphere: Swanky atmosphere with warm lighting, an open kitchen, a .. They cater to the theater crowd, with dinner and theater packages coming up for Spamalot, featuring a chance to meet the actors before the show. They boast a neighborhood feel, remembering customers on first-name basis. This favorite among the theater crowd. Upbeat music, lots of windows, amber lighting, a view of the bar and the kitchen. Energetic/loud. 30s-40s Thursday nights, high-end business types, while Friday is date night, Saturday is special occasion night.
The Chef: Jason Carron The Steak: wet aged. Corn-fed, aged up to four we4eks, hand-cut daily, broiled at 1600 degrees to seal in the juices and flavor. Flemings actually sell steaks. Manager’s favorite is bone-in NY Sirloin, 20 ounces at $44. Served medium rare with kosher salt and pepper, the steak is broiled, for a nice char on the outside, locks in moisture and flavor. Béarnaise and peppercorn sauces upon request. Side: Flemings potatoes, a cheesy, jalapeno’d escalloped version, and sugar snap peas sauteed in chili sauce. Dessert: chocolate molten lava cake Wine: Silver Oak Cabernet What makes them special: Serves a seafood tower for $95 for four, or $55 for 2.
Grill 23 & Bar 161 Berkeley St. Boston, MA 02116 617-542-2255 www.grill23.com Summary: The venerable Grill 23 & Bar has been a major steak destination of power brokers downstairs, and romancing couples in the more intimate upstairs room, for 25 years, it has set the bar for innovative cuisine and fine-dining. In the historic Salada Tea Building, with original 19th-century sculpted ceilings and massive Corinthian columns, with mahogany paneling, green marble and brass accents, and oak floors and fresh, creative seafood presentations. Executive Chef: Jay Murray The Steak: all-natural, dry-aged beef from Brandt Beef, Scotch tenderloins and flatirons Entrees: $28 prime skirt steaks with gremolata fries, $27 “meatloaf”: prime & kobe beef with mashed and mushroom gravy; and a $35 surf/turf prime rib pinwheel, wild shrimp, portobello empanada, chimichurri; $34 steak au poivre -- prime flatiron, onion loaf, dijon cognac cream.
KO Prime Nine Zero Hotel 90 Tremont St. 617-772-0202 www.koprimeboston.com Summary: Fun. The “KO” is for fearless experimental chef Ken Oringer. Edgy bar décor, dining room has chic nightclub banquettes, dècor in shades of chocolate browns and deep reds, leather, faux crocodile and cow skins chef de cuisine: Jamie Bissonnette The Steak: More than a dozen cuts ranging from Japanese Wagyu Beef at $30 an ounce, three-oz minimum, with wasabi and sukiyaki; a $38 Red Kobe Bavette from Texas, with pickled ramps and black truffle aioli, and a 28-Day Dry-Aged New York 10-oz Strip Steak for $42, with Cippolini onions.
Morton's Exeter Building www.mortons.com 617-266-5858 In Boston 20 years ago, this chain has a clubby candelit underground space recently brightened by knocking down some walls and painting a few others a little brighter, to make up for the lack of windows and walls of wine bottles. It’s loud, with a deal-maker vibe; the new 12*21 bar can get crowded with a late night 30s-40s range of regulars who’d rather eat their steak in a filet mignon slider. Has Seaport District sister restaurant. Summary: Executive Chef: Alessandro DaSilva The Steak: Grain-fed beef wet-aged 4-6 weeks, from Allen Brothers stockyards in Chicago. Waiter wheels out a display cart decked with cuts of raw meat and veggies, you get it back f4rom a 1800-degree broiler seared with Morton’s seasoning. “We are extremely consistent with what we do. No sizzle plate, no butter, that’s it,” says general manager Nicki Kern. Chef’s recommended Dish: Bone-in ribeye, seasoned with Mortons spices, au jus; can also be done Cajun style. The meat is tender and moist in the center, with good marbling Side dish: sauteed mushrooms and fresh spinach, mac and cheese with five types of cheese and some spices. Wine: 2003 Cornerstone Napa Cabernet, or 2002 Miner (The Oracle) Napa Meritage. What makes them special: Bar bites early evening and latenight’s inexpensive menu has $2 oysters and huge cocktail shrimp.
The Oak Room Fairmont Copley Plaza 138 St. James Ave. 617-267-5300 regional director of PR Suzanne Owenz Executive Chef: Laurent Poulain Summary: Since 1997, the king of the steakhouse, elegant, dark wood paneling and mirrored walls, twin Waterford crystal chandeliers, gold, red and green upholstery and draperies, intricate white plasterwork with detailed cameos adorn the 30-foot-high vaulted ceiling. Banquettes for a comfortable, intimate atmosphere for young professionals doing business, couples, tourists. The dignified experience meets a full choice of steak offerings, and a huge wine list. The Oak Bar is reminiscent of a British Officer's Club in the Orient, with extensive martini menu, raw bar and live piano. The Steak: dramatic tableside preparation for two-person center cut Chateaubriand tenderloin, with asparagus, choice of potato, and merlot demi glace and sauce béarnaise, at $95; also a Kobe flat iron steak (10 oz.) $60; The chef gets his beef from a variety of sources, including free-range, grass-fed beef from Wolf’s Neck Farm in Maine, and Chestnut Farms in Hardwick, Mass. What makes them special: Chef says his goal is to support local farms, reduce transportation pollution, and cook with in-season ingredients as much a s possible.
Smith & Wollensky 101 Arlington St. Boston, MA 02116 617-423-1112 www.smithandwollensky.com A national steakhouse, this local outlet is located in the gorgeous Park Square castle, a historic former armory with a catwalk and other amazing preserved details from within that make this atypical among paneled-brown steakhouses. The four-floor interior of the castle’s dining area is loud. Castle draws tourists, Red Sox game crowd despite being nowhere near Fenway; celebrity spottings include Jason Papelbon and some Celtics. Executive Chef: Russell Ferguson The Steak: corn-fed Midwestern prime procured by Milton Ablese of NY; dry-aged inhouse for 18-21 days, cut to portion size daily, about 200 on a Friday night. The in-house aging gives off a rich, almost grassy-fresh aroma unlike most steaks you’ll come across. “You’re tasting very wild grass, which is contradictory because it’s corn-fed,” says the chef. “It was allowed to roam, so there’s some grass, some corn husks, barley.” Can get Oscar style with crab, and with gorgonzola. Chef’s recommended Dish: 28-ounce bone-in ribeye, charred with just salt and pepper. Sides: truffled mac and cheese, a recipe that will soon be replaced with a more sophisticated yet simpler version with fontina, asiago, parmesan, smoked gouda and feta in a mornay sauce over curly cellantini; creamed spinach; seasonal mixture of roasted root vegetables and brussel sprouts. Also famous for its split pea soup. Dessert: 2-lb slice of chocolate cake, with a cow cookie. Wine: Their wine director, Brian Durand, is doing a daily high-end glass, to introduce super-premium bottles. On Friday, the glass was Archipel, a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. For a bottle, he pared down his choices among 600 bottles a 2004 Heitz Cellars Napa cabernet, at $100 he said “It’s got great tannins and great structure. It’s one of the oldest in Napa.” His second choice was a 2004 Groth Napa Cabernet, with a little more lush fruit and elegance, at $145. They recently decided to stray from their all-American wine list by adding 80 international bottles, of which he highly recommended a Chateau Margaux Rothschild. What makes them special: The castle. In-house dry-aging; birthday cards signed by the entire staff. A pricey menu made less so with early-evening fixed-price menus inspired by Restaurant Week, and by the glass prime wine specials.
McCormick & Schmick's Park Plaza Hotel 617-482-3999 www.mccormickandschmicks.com Summary: The West Coast's premier seafood chain also knows its way around a steak, and the dining room and bar has a traditional steakhouse vibe as well, with its gleaming hardwoods, white tablecloths, Hollywood-style booths, and crack waitstaff. Casual at night. Cheap happy hour apps draw the younger after-work crowd, and the dining room is filled with couples. Executive chef Antonio Hernandez, who has been with M&S for five years. The steak: Dry-aged 28 day minimum, corn-fed, farm-raised, from Buckhead Beef of Chicago. Dry aged. 28 days minimum, center cuts. “We buy high quality steaks and pay a lot of attention to them.” Chef’s Recommended dish: Surf and turf, with dessert, is $29.95: six-ounce filet or nine-ounce top sirloin, with shrimp scampi, fried or coconut shrimp, and crème brulee torched to order. Also: “The 20-ounce T-bone is to die for, it’s my favorite,” says Hernandez. “It’s a great cut of meat, and a nice size.” He serves it simply, seasoned with Montreal seasoning, a brush of butter and a sprinkling of parsley, and recommends a side of mashed potatoes, done up with plenty of crème, and asparagus. : What makes them special: “You try their steak and see ours, you won’t be able to see the difference and you’re paying $10 more for theirs,” says Hernandez. “Steak is all they cook, we mix it up and we pay attention to our steaks.”
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