Steak in the Neighborhood: package

Steaking a claim in the Boston market by Sandra Miller

In the very trendy Back Bay steakhouse dining venue, if you’re out for a $40 sirloin and you’re looking for the excitement generated by a unique mix of business people and the upwardly mobile younger set, Abe and Louie’s the place to eat and to be seen. Consistently named by critics and magazines as one of the finest steakhouses in the city, Abe and Louie’s is celebrating its 10th anniversary this October. Owner Charles Sarkis named the restaurant after Sarkis’ father, Abe, and Abe’s best friend, Louie Fox. Sarkis was 24 when he opened his first restaurant, Boraschi’s Villa, in 1965, in the spot that became JC Hillary’s in 1974, and then Abe & Louie’s Oct. 4, 1998. Sarkis wanted to reach the young, upscale customer. "Our aim has always been to put out great food, quality service, and a great environment at a very reasonable check average," he explained in a 1991 Restaurant Business article. Run by Back Bay Restaurants Group, Abe’s tries to differentiate itself from other steakhouses by offering traditional American fare, served family style and in good portions, all made on the premises. More important, however, is how the guest is treated. “We don't say no -- that's not hospitality,” he has been quoted as saying. When the guest first walks in, the maitre’ds, Tracey and Romeo, who have been with the restaurant nearly as long as it’s been open, will probably know you by name if you’ve been in a few times. “We know everyone here,” says Raisis. “If they walk in for the first time we know they’re new….and that they’ll become a regular.” Guests skew heavily on the local regulars, couples and families who may come 3-5 times a week. There are the ladies who lunch, the tourists and International crowd, and the high-powered business meetings. The restaurant is old-school steakhouse, very clubby décor with large leather booths, bronze chandeliers, mahogany and cherry millwork, and natural stone. The main dining room has multiple levels and an outside area during the warmer months, a long bar that nearly stretches to the open kitchen, and a noisy din where you can’t hear yourself talk. The music, when it can be heard over the nighttime buzz, is American standards. For a quieter dinner, diners are sent upstairs to the newly opened 80-seat area with windows overlooking Boylston. For those who like the energy, that’s the fun of eating at Abe & Louie’s. It’s a place where many want to be seen, not heard. Maybe you’ve seen one of the regulars, Mel Gibson, who discovered Abe’s along with Robert Deniro and James Cameron, in town recently filming “On the Edge of Darkness.” DeNiro liked the crispy pork special. When you’re seated, you get freshly made bread crisps, including sourdough slices baked with cheese, and pumpernickel dusted in cinnamon sugar. For appetizers, the crunch-topped crabcakes are lump crab bound by peaked egg whites, not bread crumb, for a light and moist crowd favorite served with mango salsa and house-made tartar. The king of the appetizers is a stunning $100 seafood tower that feeds a crowd on shrimps, crab mushrooms, clams casino, lobster tails, and oysters Rockefeller. Friendly waiters will describe in detail the differences between a $45 barrel-cut bone-in filet mignon or a $84 porterhouse for two, or that the prime steaks are corn-fed, Midwestern cows with meat wet-aged 4-5 weeks and are cut fresh daily. The Saturday night special is a $40 Carpetbagger steak with oysters, wrapped in bacon. Most steaks are served with just seasoned salt, although sauces on the side include au poivre, chimichurri, béarnaise, hollandaise, portabella demi glace, and their house steak sauce (which is available online). A 24-ounce bone-in ribeye, the top-seller because of its tenderness, charred top, is brushed with butter and fills the whole plate. Each bite melts in your mouth. The executive chef, Bill Bramlett, says that a good steak is based on the quality of the meat, and “taking care of it.” He believes in just seasoning it and letting it rest to warm up to room temp. The cuts are from corn-fed Nebraskan cows, and wet-aged for 4-6 weeks by Kinnealey, their purveyor. “The climate, the room to roam, the cool weather, they tend to eat better,” says Bramlett. Waiters are trained in all of the wine selections, which vary by season, and also politely ask about price range before making a recommendation. One waiter, Joseph, recommends a glass of the Cabernet Silver Palm, North Coast, for $10, to go along with a T-bone. For a bottle, server Heather Sherwin asked a few questions, and decided that the best cabernet on the menu to pair with a great steak was a 2003 Shafer Hillside cabernet from Napa, which went for $350. “It has a great amount of structure to it, with very decent tannins,” says Heather. “When it opens iup, it’s more velvety on the mouth, which complements the marbling on the steak. The tannins will offset the fat on the steak.” For a spicier steak sauce, she would recommended a shiraz, the 2006 Torbreck, whose fruitier tones complemented the au poivre sauce. Desserts include a huge 7 layer chocolate cake, a key lime pie with a crunchy crust, or a hot chocolate sundae sprinkled with fresh whipped cream and almonds. It’s made with a special vanilla ice cream recipe that Sarkis developed 44 years ago with a local vendor, and served with a heated pot of fudge on the side. At night, it’s a busy singles scene of varying ages, from the 20s to the 60s range, and it can get crowded until the hookups seek more private space. A good place to work Abe and Louie’s is listed as the top in Boston sales by Restaurants & Institutions Magazine’s 2007 survey, and 27th out of 100 independent restaurants in the country. That may be due to loyal customers who first come for a good meal, but come back for the service. Abe’s employs about 160, with most waitstaff who are career servers. “You have to be the best of the best,” says Amy Daniels, director of marketing for the Back Bay Restaurant Group. “Good is not enough for us.” She referred to the RGPs, which she explained is short for the wait staff who are “really good people,” the keepers. Like other top restaurants in the city, they’ve enticed away top servers from other spots. Tracey Raisis has been with Sarkis for 44 years, the second employee that he hired. Sarkis’ first hire was Paul Bussolini, a general manager for decades who is now doing IT in the corporate office. It’s a company that inspires loyalty. “Their steaks melt in your mouth,” says Sherwin, who has experience working at other area steakhouses. “It feels like it’s one big family. I’ve been doing this for a very long time, and this is the best job I’ve had. When I wake up I look forward to going to work every day.” Chef Bramlett has been with Abe’s for more than 9 years, 16 with Back Bay Restaurants. “I like making people happy,” he says.

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Steak, it’s what for dinner in Back Bay by Sandra Miller

A great steak is a vice. Its juiciness is hidden beneath a nice char, and when you bite into it, the meat just melts in your mouth. You heartily devour the entire plate-sized slab, the tannins of a good cabernet equal to the challenge. You don’t forget about the creamy potatoes and crisp vegetable sides, but that’s not why you’re at a Back Bay steak house. You’re there for impossibly savvy service, for the hum of a room, a stolen glance at other tables for friends, future friends, even a celebrity. Back Bay is great steakhouse central in New England, bar none. For a table of four on a weekend at one of the neighborhood’s top shelf steak houses, it’s hard to get out the door without paying $500, with tip. But you’re paying $30-$40 for the finest plate-sized USDA Prime. You want to hear a story about your cow’s sacrifice, and listen attentively to your waiter describe whether it’s dry or wet aged, and for how long, and whether the cow ate corn or grass. “People will get a ‘wow’ experience,” promises Morton’s manager Nicki Kern, who says there’s a reason Morton’s doesn’t have to advertise beyond word of mouth. “Our hospitality is over the top. It’s what they expected, and more. People like coming here.” The Restaurant Industry Performance index says sales remain soft, according to the National Restaurant Association. Operators across the nation report lower sales and traffic levels. But in this economy, in these times where the word “recession” is being debated, these major league Back Bay steakhouses are still pulling them in from all over town, as well as from the ‘burbs and from around the world. “When times get tough, people want to have fun,” says Oak Room Chef Laurent Poulain, who says they are fully booked every weekend. “They want to forget about the tough times and have a glass of wine or a martini. We have a restaurant that makes people happy.” When the weather cools, people like settling into the joy of a great steak, huge portions of creamy sides and sinful desserts. Customers want to spend their hard-earned money not on two or three forgettable meals, but a single memorable one. They wish to be entertained with the inventive menu and fabulous service, along with the uncorking of a good red, shimmying to the shakers of a fun cocktail. “You come here for birthdays, anniversaries, when you have something to celebrate,” says Flemings’ General Manager Michael Dearing. “It’s nice to splurge. You come for the experience. It’s one of the best ways to spend a Friday or Saturday night.” And you want someone else to do the dishes. Or maybe you don’t mind. Could you duplicate the experience at home? It’s pretty hard to buy a prime cut. Those ranks of the good stuff are saved for the restaurants, since they only comprise about 3 percent of all beef sold. It’s also not easy to cook a nice steak on a home grill or broiler. “When you’re cooking at home, the pan might cool off, the grill might cool off,” says McCormick & Schmick’s executive chef, Tony Hernandez. A restaurant’s professional oven offers consistent heat, as does the repetition of their chefs cooking the steak every day, he says. In other words: Kids, don’t try this at home. Steak lovers really can’t go wrong at any of the following steakhouses. All of these steakhouses have won some “best of” award; if a steakhouse has survived the competition for this long, you know they must be doing something right. Instead, you may be searching for a certain scene, or a style of preparation. The following is a guide of what’s at steak: Bonfire, A Todd English Steakhouse Boston Park Plaza Hotel Boston, MA 02116 617-262-3473 www.bonfiresteakhouse.com Summary: Local celebrity Todd English adds a touch of Latin to the steakhouse. Interior is filled with reds, polished woods, iron-accented furniture. Theater and younger trendy crowds. It’s singles night among the younger set on the weekends. Chef: Bobby Bean, moved here 4 months ago from English’s Kingfish. The Steak: Dry-aged 90-120 days, the longer th e better, and cooked on an open, wood-fired kitchen; also spit fired Prime Rib of Western Beef. The chef is bringing in more organic and local beef, including tenderloins from Lilbrock Farms in New York. The current cows come from fine farms, Bean says, but Bean wants to work with the farms whose methods he’s familiar with. “Happy cows make better beef,” he says. Chef’s recommended dish: 10-oz skirt steak from Brandt Farms in California. It’s so moist and tender, without any marinade or any seasoning aside from salt and pepper. “The flavor is so much better than a tenderloin,” says Bean. “When you bite into it, it’s almost the same as a nice Wagyu or Kobe. The explosion of fat and flavor just coats your mouth. The texture is not overly chewy, it’s a well-made steak.” The cows are cornfed. What Bean likes about the farm is that they are able to raise cows on corn diets without having to resort to antibiotics to help them digest it, by, um, letting them keep their manhood for their first six months. “It lets the natural testosterone build muscles and a digestive system,” says Bean. “Life on corn feed gives it a fine flavor,” he says. Sides: Tapas; spinach sautéed in garlic What makes them special: Latin menu; Menu’s steaks will list cow’s origins, whether grass or corn fed, if it’s organic, and other details. The Capital Grille 359 Newbury St. 617-262-8900 www.thecapitalgrille.com They didn’t want to be in our roundup. You know who they are and what makes them special. Davio’s Italian Steakhouse 75 Arlington St. Co-Executive Chefs: Stephen W. Brown and Eric Swartz Summary: This spot doesn’t normally come to mind when you think of steakhouses, but when it moved from Newbury Street to Park Square, it added quality steak to its lineup of tagliatelle Bolognese, Penne Applewood Smoked Chicken and homemade sausages. Inside features attentive friendly service, a large display kitchen with in-house bakery, an award-winning wine list, and a to-go area. Large windows, comfy chairs, muted taupes and chocolate brown decor. Busy and noisy, with a bar crowd ranging from suits to the theater crowd. Steak: All-natural dry-aged Brandt beef, from the grilled skirt steak at $28 to the Grilled Snake River Farms Kobe Coulotte at $51, and Prime Natural Aged 30oz Long-Bone Rib Eye at $52 Wine: rare and expensive Italian vintages, along with an international selection of other wines. Special: bakery makes fresh doughnuts and ice cream. Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar 217 Stuart St. Boston, MA 02116 617-292-0808 www.flemingssteakhouse.com Since: eight years Summary/atmosphere: Swanky atmosphere with warm lighting, an open kitchen, a .. They cater to the theater crowd, with dinner and theater packages coming up for Spamalot, featuring a chance to meet the actors before the show. They boast a neighborhood feel, remembering customers on first-name basis. This favorite among the theater crowd. Upbeat music, lots of windows, amber lighting, a view of the bar and the kitchen. Energetic/loud. 30s-40s Thursday nights, high-end business types, while Friday is date night, Saturday is special occasion night. The Chef: Jason Carron The Steak: wet aged. Corn-fed, aged up to four we4eks, hand-cut daily, broiled at 1600 degrees to seal in the juices and flavor. Flemings actually sell steaks. Manager’s favorite is bone-in NY Sirloin, 20 ounces at $44. Served medium rare with kosher salt and pepper, the steak is broiled, for a nice char on the outside, locks in moisture and flavor. Béarnaise and peppercorn sauces upon request. Side: Flemings potatoes, a cheesy, jalapeno’d escalloped version, and sugar snap peas sauteed in chili sauce. Dessert: chocolate molten lava cake Wine: Silver Oak Cabernet What makes them special: Serves a seafood tower for $95 for four, or $55 for 2. Grill 23 & Bar 161 Berkeley St. Boston, MA 02116 617-542-2255 www.grill23.com Summary: The venerable Grill 23 & Bar has been a major steak destination of power brokers downstairs, and romancing couples in the more intimate upstairs room, for 25 years, it has set the bar for innovative cuisine and fine-dining. In the historic Salada Tea Building, with original 19th-century sculpted ceilings and massive Corinthian columns, with mahogany paneling, green marble and brass accents, and oak floors and fresh, creative seafood presentations. Executive Chef: Jay Murray The Steak: all-natural, dry-aged beef from Brandt Beef, Scotch tenderloins and flatirons Entrees: $28 prime skirt steaks with gremolata fries, $27 “meatloaf”: prime & kobe beef with mashed and mushroom gravy; and a $35 surf/turf prime rib pinwheel, wild shrimp, portobello empanada, chimichurri; $34 steak au poivre -- prime flatiron, onion loaf, dijon cognac cream. KO Prime Nine Zero Hotel 90 Tremont St. 617-772-0202 www.koprimeboston.com Summary: Fun. The “KO” is for fearless experimental chef Ken Oringer. Edgy bar décor, dining room has chic nightclub banquettes, dècor in shades of chocolate browns and deep reds, leather, faux crocodile and cow skins chef de cuisine: Jamie Bissonnette The Steak: More than a dozen cuts ranging from Japanese Wagyu Beef at $30 an ounce, three-oz minimum, with wasabi and sukiyaki; a $38 Red Kobe Bavette from Texas, with pickled ramps and black truffle aioli, and a 28-Day Dry-Aged New York 10-oz Strip Steak for $42, with Cippolini onions. Morton's Exeter Building www.mortons.com 617-266-5858 In Boston 20 years ago, this chain has a clubby candelit underground space recently brightened by knocking down some walls and painting a few others a little brighter, to make up for the lack of windows and walls of wine bottles. It’s loud, with a deal-maker vibe; the new 12*21 bar can get crowded with a late night 30s-40s range of regulars who’d rather eat their steak in a filet mignon slider. Has Seaport District sister restaurant. Summary: Executive Chef: Alessandro DaSilva The Steak: Grain-fed beef wet-aged 4-6 weeks, from Allen Brothers stockyards in Chicago. Waiter wheels out a display cart decked with cuts of raw meat and veggies, you get it back f4rom a 1800-degree broiler seared with Morton’s seasoning. “We are extremely consistent with what we do. No sizzle plate, no butter, that’s it,” says general manager Nicki Kern. Chef’s recommended Dish: Bone-in ribeye, seasoned with Mortons spices, au jus; can also be done Cajun style. The meat is tender and moist in the center, with good marbling Side dish: sauteed mushrooms and fresh spinach, mac and cheese with five types of cheese and some spices. Wine: 2003 Cornerstone Napa Cabernet, or 2002 Miner (The Oracle) Napa Meritage. What makes them special: Bar bites early evening and latenight’s inexpensive menu has $2 oysters and huge cocktail shrimp. The Oak Room Fairmont Copley Plaza 138 St. James Ave. 617-267-5300 regional director of PR Suzanne Owenz Executive Chef: Laurent Poulain Summary: Since 1997, the king of the steakhouse, elegant, dark wood paneling and mirrored walls, twin Waterford crystal chandeliers, gold, red and green upholstery and draperies, intricate white plasterwork with detailed cameos adorn the 30-foot-high vaulted ceiling. Banquettes for a comfortable, intimate atmosphere for young professionals doing business, couples, tourists. The dignified experience meets a full choice of steak offerings, and a huge wine list. The Oak Bar is reminiscent of a British Officer's Club in the Orient, with extensive martini menu, raw bar and live piano. The Steak: dramatic tableside preparation for two-person center cut Chateaubriand tenderloin, with asparagus, choice of potato, and merlot demi glace and sauce béarnaise, at $95; also a Kobe flat iron steak (10 oz.) $60; The chef gets his beef from a variety of sources, including free-range, grass-fed beef from Wolf’s Neck Farm in Maine, and Chestnut Farms in Hardwick, Mass. What makes them special: Chef says his goal is to support local farms, reduce transportation pollution, and cook with in-season ingredients as much a s possible. Smith & Wollensky 101 Arlington St. Boston, MA 02116 617-423-1112 www.smithandwollensky.com A national steakhouse, this local outlet is located in the gorgeous Park Square castle, a historic former armory with a catwalk and other amazing preserved details from within that make this atypical among paneled-brown steakhouses. The four-floor interior of the castle’s dining area is loud. Castle draws tourists, Red Sox game crowd despite being nowhere near Fenway; celebrity spottings include Jason Papelbon and some Celtics. Executive Chef: Russell Ferguson The Steak: corn-fed Midwestern prime procured by Milton Ablese of NY; dry-aged inhouse for 18-21 days, cut to portion size daily, about 200 on a Friday night. The in-house aging gives off a rich, almost grassy-fresh aroma unlike most steaks you’ll come across. “You’re tasting very wild grass, which is contradictory because it’s corn-fed,” says the chef. “It was allowed to roam, so there’s some grass, some corn husks, barley.” Can get Oscar style with crab, and with gorgonzola. Chef’s recommended Dish: 28-ounce bone-in ribeye, charred with just salt and pepper. Sides: truffled mac and cheese, a recipe that will soon be replaced with a more sophisticated yet simpler version with fontina, asiago, parmesan, smoked gouda and feta in a mornay sauce over curly cellantini; creamed spinach; seasonal mixture of roasted root vegetables and brussel sprouts. Also famous for its split pea soup. Dessert: 2-lb slice of chocolate cake, with a cow cookie. Wine: Their wine director, Brian Durand, is doing a daily high-end glass, to introduce super-premium bottles. On Friday, the glass was Archipel, a Bordeaux blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. For a bottle, he pared down his choices among 600 bottles a 2004 Heitz Cellars Napa cabernet, at $100 he said “It’s got great tannins and great structure. It’s one of the oldest in Napa.” His second choice was a 2004 Groth Napa Cabernet, with a little more lush fruit and elegance, at $145. They recently decided to stray from their all-American wine list by adding 80 international bottles, of which he highly recommended a Chateau Margaux Rothschild. What makes them special: The castle. In-house dry-aging; birthday cards signed by the entire staff. A pricey menu made less so with early-evening fixed-price menus inspired by Restaurant Week, and by the glass prime wine specials. McCormick & Schmick's Park Plaza Hotel 617-482-3999 www.mccormickandschmicks.com Summary: The West Coast's premier seafood chain also knows its way around a steak, and the dining room and bar has a traditional steakhouse vibe as well, with its gleaming hardwoods, white tablecloths, Hollywood-style booths, and crack waitstaff. Casual at night. Cheap happy hour apps draw the younger after-work crowd, and the dining room is filled with couples. Executive chef Antonio Hernandez, who has been with M&S for five years. The steak: Dry-aged 28 day minimum, corn-fed, farm-raised, from Buckhead Beef of Chicago. Dry aged. 28 days minimum, center cuts. “We buy high quality steaks and pay a lot of attention to them.” Chef’s Recommended dish: Surf and turf, with dessert, is $29.95: six-ounce filet or nine-ounce top sirloin, with shrimp scampi, fried or coconut shrimp, and crème brulee torched to order. Also: “The 20-ounce T-bone is to die for, it’s my favorite,” says Hernandez. “It’s a great cut of meat, and a nice size.” He serves it simply, seasoned with Montreal seasoning, a brush of butter and a sprinkling of parsley, and recommends a side of mashed potatoes, done up with plenty of crème, and asparagus. : What makes them special: “You try their steak and see ours, you won’t be able to see the difference and you’re paying $10 more for theirs,” says Hernandez. “Steak is all they cook, we mix it up and we pay attention to our steaks.”

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Steak primer by Sandra Miller

Vocabulary: Dry aged beef: hung to dry for several weeks. This process involves considerable expense as the beef must be stored at near freezing temperatures. Also only the higher grades of meat can be dry aged, as the process requires meat with a large, evenly distributed fat content. Preferred because moisture is evaporated from the muscle, for greater concentration of beef flavor and taste. Beef’s natural enzymes break down the connective tissue in the muscle for tender beef. This process creates significant loss of weight in the aging process from evaporation, and trimming of mold. Mold can actually tenderize beef. Wet-aged beef: typically aged in a vacuum-sealed bag, requiring only a matter of days with no loss of weight, and doesn't require the same precision in cooling. Most common method of aging beef in US. None of the beef is lost in the process. “Dry aged beef, to most palates, tastes gamier, almost like venison,” says Fleming’s manager Michael Dearing. “Wet-aged, logic says it’s a moister, wetter steak. Prime beef: best grade, It comprises less than 2% of all graded beef. Has an abundant amount of marbling; tends to be found only in restaurants, fine butcher shops, and custom or specialty suppliers of beef. Choice grade: high grade to fine butcher shops; middle of the Choice grade goes to supermarkets. Choice can be nearly as good as Prime, especially in the top 2/3 of the grade. Generally, it tends to have a little less marbling (and therefore less complexity to the flavor) and a slightly tougher texture than Prime. Choice is usually the highest grade found in grocery store meat departments, although some chains may custom order prime cuts for large purchases. Select or good grade: supermarket grade, leaner than prime or choice, not as tender, flavorful and juicy as prime or choice. Good for pot roast or stew. less marbling than Choice, and will have even less complexity to the flavor. Can dry out easily when overcooked, especially as steaks. It's trimmed well and ready for cooking Certified Angus Beef (CAB) In 1978 a beef program was formed between the American Angus Association and beef producers, to assure a certain level of quality and flavor for consumers. The result was Certified Angus Beef or CAB for short. CAB states that less than 8 percent of beef produced in the USA can earn the distinctive Certified Angus Beef ® brand stamp. Certified Beef, Black Angus Beef, Angus Beef and or any combination of words, is not the same as CAB. Wagyu beef: Wagyu is a breed of cattle that naturally produces densely marbled beef, and surpasses USDA marbling standards for prime-grade beef. Often referred to as the "foie gras of beef.” Kobe Beef: The famed Japanese beef massaged with sake and fed a daily diet that includes large amounts of beer. This produces meat that is tender, finely marbled, and full-flavored. It can cost $100 a pound. Wagyu is the same breed stock that yields Kobe beef. To earn the appellation of Kobe beef its production must conform to standards imposed within that region. Marbling: the network of fine lines of white fat adds to the rich flavor and fine texture of the best cuts.

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How to cook a steak: tips from local chefs by Sandra Miller

• McCormick & Schmick’s executive chef Tony Hernandez says he’d pick a cowboy steak or T-bone with some good marbleization for flavor, season it with Montreal seasoning, brushed on top with butter, and sprinkle with parsley. “You want to move it around in the pan,” says Hernandez. • Many chefs prefer a steak with the bone on it, to offer more flavor; many confess to chewing on the bone afterward. • Flemings manager Michael Deering will grill outdoors until it snows. He recommends cooking on a really clean grill, heat on high. The T-bone, about 1 ½-inches wide, is salted and peppered, and put on the high heat for five minutes. “People want to start pulling it apart,” he says. “Let it sit there. It’s not going to stick after five minutes. It needs the crust.” Salt and pepper the top, then flip, to sit for another five minutes. Then, if you want it medium rare, turn down the heat for another couple of minutes. • Bonfire’s Bobby Bean: “The biggest thing is resting at the end, that way, when you cook it, the blood redistributes; otherwise, it’ll bleed out and become a well-done steak.” • Smith & Wollensky executive chef Russell Ferguson would pick up a ribeye at Savenors, let it warm at room temperature for about 10 minutes, and pan-sear it with just salt and pepper, for a nice crust on both sides, then finish it in a 375-degree oven. • Oak Room chef Laurent Poulain’s lets the steak sit at room temperature a couple of hours, seasoning it with cracked pepper and sea salt, melted butter or olive oil, and using a nice hot grill or pan. “If it’s not hot, you won’t seal in the juices.” For medium rare, he’d do eight minutes each side; a meat thermometer should read 120 degrees. Just before it would reach medium rare, let it sit for 10 minutes, off the heat, which will keep it cooking. “You want to let it relax,” he says. • Bill Bramlett, of Abe and Louie’s: in an outdoor grill, “be patient with it, cook it slow,” he says.