Thursday, May 17, 2012

Darryl's Corner Bar a cozy haven for gluten-free dining

It had been a while since I had set foot in this corner of the South End; I had spent a few brunches at the iconic Bob the Chef’s/Bob’s Southern Bistro soaking in the Berklee student jazz ensembles and the mimosas with waffles and such. I was sad to see it close. When  Darryl Settles reopened the space more than a year ago, as Darryl’s Corner Bar & Kitchen, I was happy, but also worried: let's just say I didn’t associate that spot with healthy eats. So when I was invited to visit again recently, I was happily surprised when they assured me that  I could eat gluten-free in an expanded menu of “southern and comfort cuisine."
My kid and I went on a Saturday night, and despite it being only 6:30pm, a line  cued up along a brick wall covered with photos of jazz musicians.  The atmosphere was sophisticated and fun, in a darkened stretch of room with a long bar at the far end, and an R&B band just warming up. Many in the crowd were networking with other tables, and on the whole, everyone just seemed happy to be there.
Our waiter was so gracious and happy to double-check whether my choices were GF. He recommended the starter mussels in red curry coconut, although the fra diavolo and white wine and garlic versions also sounded tempting. But the coconut curry version was delicious. I really missed having a basketful of bread to mop up the sauce. The mussels were perfectly done. (BTW, we had JUST missed the half-priced happy hour— Tuesday thru Saturday, 5-6:30 pm: Chicken wings, catfish strips and mussels.)
Ah, no  GF beer, but I was intrigued by the “Darryl’s Chicken Martini.” Ah, no chicken, but it did feature “Tito’s Handmade vodka,” along with Stirring Apple, Cointreau, splash of lime and topped with Hennessey” for just $12.
My son ordered the kid-sized fried chicken strips with fries, ($8) and was able to substitute the fries with sautéed spinach, which wasn’t on the menu. The chicken recipe is the same as the Glorified chicken main dish, which turned out to be a little too spicy for him.
I tried the pan-fried trout ($24), which had a generous amount of fish, along with a salsa verde and shrimp salad that mostly seemed mostly green peppers and tomatoes, along with pan-fried potatoes. It was good, but not memorable; next time I come, I might try the GF sweet potato and black bean veggie pattie, and ask to substitute the fries with some collard greens and candied yams if those, too were GF. The big fresh bowl o' beets with toasted pine nuts and Gorgonzola is definitely a great GF side dish, and if I felt like fish again the chili and cilantro crusted haddock, also said to be GF, with gingered sweet potatoes and green beans, might be a good choice.
There's also good salad choices, of course, but with all the temptations in this hotspot, it's hard to do salad. I mean, the banquette table next to us featured a trio of women devouring the “glorifried” chicken over golden waffles, and those on the other side of us enjoyed red velvet cake. Yes, this GF gal was jealous. The only dessert choice for us was the JP Licks ice cream, which after all isn't exactly a sad concession.

Notes: $3 cover charge during entertainment.
Address: 604 Columbus Ave.; 617-536-1100

Upcoming events:
Valentine’s Menu: February 14, 6 pm to 11 pm; Dinner and dancing, performance by Nadia Washington; a complimentary flute of champagne and a three-course prix fixe menu ($60):
Starters:
  • Fish Stew with Atlantic haddock, roasted chilies, sweet sausage, corn, and garlic toast or
  • Classic Caesar Salad with crisp Parmesan and anchovy or
  • Big Bowl O’Beets with toasted pine nuts, Gorgonzola and fresh herbs
Entrées
  • Seared Garlic and Herb Marinated Pork Chops served with garlic mashed potatoes and spring vegetables or
  • Seafood Cioppino - mussels, shrimp, squid, fresh cod in a rich tomato garlic stew served with garlic bruschetta or
  • Roasted Atlantic Haddock with chorizo, corn chowder and marinated tomato or
  • Braised Short Ribs with sautéed spinach and mushrooms served over mashed potatoes with balsamic reduction:
Desserts:
  • Sweet Hearts Red Velvet Cake or
  • Sinful Mile High Chocolate Cake

Other events:

  • February is Black History Month, with a Monday night speaker series featuring William “Mo” Cowan, Gov. Patrick’s chief of staff, and Feb. 27 is Michael Curry, Boston NAACP President.
  • Mardi Gras is Feb. 16-21, featuring New Orleans specialities.
  • Friday and Saturday evenings feature dancing for the “mature professional” (30+) crowd.
  • Sundays are Jazz and gospel brunch, with shrimp and grits, fried chicken and waffles, huevos rancheros, BBQ shrimp, and cheesy grits.
  • Tuesdays starting at 8pm are Reggae nights, featuring local talent, special cocktails and dinner specials, and “Boston’s Best Jerk Chicken Wings.”
  • 1/2 price apps Tuesday thru Saturday, 5-6:30 pm: Chicken wings, catfish strips and mussels 
  • Sunday nights are game nights: starting at 6pm, it’s trivia, card games, Taboo etc., and ½ price apps from 6-7pm

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